How Custom Chains Are Made: From Sketch to Shipment
Custom chains are made in five stages: brief, CAD design, casting, stone setting and finishing/QC and nothing gets cast until you approve the CAD.
At BlueIce Gems, the build takes about 2–4 weeks after design approval, followed by 1–2 business days of processing and 3–7 business days for US delivery. The stage most people underestimate is CAD because it fixes the link width, drape and clasp before a gram of gold is touched.
Most people asking how custom chains are made are deciding between a chain from our collection and a commissioned piece a specific width, a length that sits right with a pendant, an engraved clasp, or a link pattern nobody stocks.
In this guide, we walk through exactly what happens at each stage, what you approve, what drives the price, and how long each part takes, so you know what you are paying for and where the time goes.
Contents![]()
- What happens first when you order a custom chain?
- How does the CAD design stage work?
- Which chain styles can be made custom, and how is each one built?
- How are the links made?
- How are the stones set?
- Which clasp should a custom chain have?
- What quality checks happen before a chain ships?
- How long does a custom chain take?
- What decides the price of a custom chain?
- Where is a BlueIce Gems chain actually made?
- Custom or from the collection which should you choose?
- How do you look after a custom chain?
- Frequently Asked Questions
What Happens First When You Order a Custom Chain?
The first stage is a brief, and a tight brief is what keeps a custom chain on schedule.
We need six things from you:
- Link style - Cuban, Miami Cuban, tennis, Franco, rope, Figaro, box, or a pattern of your own.
- Link width in millimetres - this sets weight, price and presence more than any other choice.
- Length in inches - 18", 20", 22" and 24" are standard points; anything is possible.
- Metal - 925 silver, 10K, 14K or 18K gold, or platinum.
- Stone - premium VVS moissanite or lab-grown diamond, and whether the whole chain is iced or only part of it.
- Extras - engraving, clasp preference, and whether a pendant will hang from it.
Reference images help more than descriptions. A screenshot of a chain you like plus “but 2mm wider and in 14K yellow” tells us more than three paragraphs.
If the chain will carry a pendant, tell us the pendant's weight and bail size. A chain that looks right on its own can sit differently once a heavier pendant pulls on it, and a bail that is too tight for the link will not sit correctly.
[VERIFY BEFORE PUBLISHING: The source states a $51 custom-order deposit on product pages. Confirm that this deposit applies to custom chains and confirm the balance terms before publishing. If not confirmed, remove this sentence.]
Custom orders start with a deposit, after which the design moves to CAD. You can also book a design consultation with our New York office if you would rather talk through your idea first.
How Does the CAD Design Stage Work?
CAD is where a custom chain is really designed. The metal work reproduces what the CAD already fixed.
Our team builds a scaled 3D model of the link, the clasp interface and the stone layout, then sends you renders to approve. CAD previews come with unlimited revisions, and nothing is cast until you sign off.
A CAD render shows you three things a sketch cannot:
- The exact cross-section of the link, which affects how it feels against the neck.
- How the stones sit relative to each other, which affects whether the ice reads as one continuous surface or individual points.
- How the final link meets the clasp, which is one of the areas that needs close attention during construction.
Renders are usually shown from the front, in profile and at the clasp.
When reviewing a CAD render, check these details carefully:
- Link width and profile. A 10mm Cuban and an 8mm Cuban are different chains, not simply the same chain in two sizes. Width affects weight, price and how the chain drapes.
- Solid or hollow links. We build solid links. Hollow links weigh and cost less but can dent more easily. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, a hollow-centre piece cannot be described as “solid gold.”
- Clasp. A box clasp with a safety catch is suited to heavier chains, while a lobster clasp is commonly used on lighter pieces. The clasp deserves close attention because it is one of the most frequently handled parts of a chain.
- Stone layout. Check the prong count, stone size and whether the sides of the links are iced or left polished.
- Length. Confirm the length against a chain you already own rather than relying only on a number you remember.
Changing width or link construction after casting means re-casting, which is why we require CAD approval first. Changes such as engraving text or polish finish are generally much simpler to make later in the process.
Which Chain Styles Can Be Made Custom, and How Is Each One Built?
Any style can be made custom, but the construction differs by pattern. That affects both what can be iced and how the chain is built.
| Style | How the links are made | Typically iced? | Notes for custom orders |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cuban / Miami Cuban | Each link is cast from CAD with stone seats built in, then soldered closed. | Yes one of the most common iced-out chain styles. | Width is the main decision. |
| Tennis chain | Individual stone settings, such as prong or bezel settings, are linked in a line. | Yes the whole chain is stones. | Stone size sets the look; stone count affects the price. |
| Franco | Two or four wire strands are woven in a V pattern. | Usually polished; iced versions can be cast. | Strong pendant chain, often paired with an iced pendant. |
| Rope | Twisted wire strands. | Rarely iced. | Custom work is commonly focused on length, width and metal. |
| Figaro | Alternating long and short links. | Rarely iced. | Custom options include width, length and metal. |
| Box / cluster | Cast links or clustered settings. | Often. | Cluster chains are built similarly to tennis chains with multi-stone heads. |
Cuban and tennis chains are two styles we build custom most often because the stone layout becomes part of the design.
Franco and rope chains are more often selected as the chain for a custom pendant. In those cases, the custom work is often about matching t
he width and length to the pendant rather than icing the entire chain.
How Are the Links Made?
Iced-out chain links are cast rather than drawn from wire.
The approved CAD is 3D-printed in resin. The resin links are mounted on a wax “tree,” the tree is invested in a plaster mould, the resin is burned out in a kiln, and the empty cavity is filled with molten metal.
Each cast link comes out with the stone seats and prong areas already in place. This geometry helps create precise, repeatable pavé across a large number of links.
Plain wire-drawn links the traditional method for some bare curb or rope chains — do not have the same geometry.
We cast in 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold, and platinum.
For an everyday chain, 14K is the usual recommendation because it offers a balance of durability and colour. If you specifically want the richer colour of 18K and plan to wear the piece primarily for occasions, 18K can be the right choice. Silver is an option when budget is the priority and you are comfortable with regular polishing.
After casting, links are cut from the tree, sprue stubs are filed away, and each link is cleaned and pre-polished before assembly. Polishing before stone setting helps reduce the risk of scratching stones.
The links are then closed and soldered so the chain is continuous metal at every join.
A soldered link can be repaired later, while a pinched-shut link may not provide the same long-term confidence.
Grillz go through the same print-cast-set sequence, which is why chains and grillz share the same general production workflow.
How Are the Stones Set?
Every stone is set by hand, one at a time, after the metal is assembled and pre-polished.
Stones are premium VVS moissanite or lab-grown diamonds. Your stone choice is made at the brief stage, and the price difference between the two can be one of the biggest variables in a custom quote.
Before setting, stones are matched for size and colour so a row reads as one continuous line of light rather than a checkerboard.
On a chain with several hundred stones, this matching step takes time. It is also one reason two chains with the same stone count can look noticeably different.
The setting style depends on the chain:
- Prong (pavé) setting - the standard approach on many Cuban links. Small beads of metal are raised or closed over the edge of each stone, allowing a strong visual emphasis on the stones.
- Bezel setting - a metal rim surrounds each stone. This can be used on tennis chains and cluster heads where larger stones need protection around the edge.
- Channel setting -stones sit in a groove between two metal walls, creating a cleaner line with fewer snag points.
Moissanite and lab-grown diamonds can both be set with prongs when the seat is correctly prepared. Moissanite has a Mohs hardness of 9.25, while diamond has a hardness of 10.
Once every stone is set, the chain is inspected for loose stones, uneven prongs and stones sitting higher than their neighbours.
Custom pendants commissioned with a chain can be set at the same bench so the stone size and colour work together across both pieces.
Which Clasp Should a Custom Chain Have?
Box clasp with a safety catch for anything heavy; lobster clasp for anything light.
The clasp is one of the parts of a chain that is opened and closed regularly, so choosing the right clasp matters for both function and appearance.
- Box clasp - a tongue clicks into a box, usually with a figure-eight safety catch on the side. It sits flush with the chain and can blend into the pattern of a wide Cuban. It is our default choice for wide, heavy iced-out chains.
- Lobster clasp - a spring-loaded claw that is reliable and easy to service. On a wide chain, however, it can stand out visually.
- Spring ring - a small clasp generally suited to lighter jewellery rather than a heavy chain intended for long-term wear.
If you want the clasp engraved, the box clasp tongue or an attached tag is the better location. Avoid engraving a load-bearing link because removing too much metal can affect the component.
What Quality Checks Happen Before a Chain Ships?
A finished chain needs to be checked across three areas: metal, stones and mechanics.
Metal is checked for surface finish after final polish. Stones are checked individually for security. Mechanics include checking the clasp and soldered joins.
Where applicable, stone certification such as SGL, IGI or GIA documentation is included with the order. For lab-grown diamond chains, certification may accompany the stones where applicable. Moissanite is typically sold with quality documentation rather than a laboratory grading report.
Custom and engraved pieces are non-returnable unless they arrive defective. That is why CAD approval and pre-shipment inspection are important parts of the custom process.
How Long Does a Custom Chain Take?
About 2–4 weeks after you approve the CAD, plus shipping.
The clock does not start at deposit. It starts at design sign-off. A brief that goes through several CAD rounds therefore takes longer than one that is approved on the first render.
| Stage | What happens | What you do |
|---|---|---|
| Brief | Style, width, length, metal, stone and engraving are confirmed. | Send references and measurements. |
| CAD design | 3D model, renders and revisions. | Approve the render. This starts the build clock. |
| Casting and assembly | Resin print, investment casting, links cut, closed and soldered. | Nothing required from you during this stage. |
| Stone setting | Stones are matched and hand-set, and prongs are closed. | Nothing required from you during this stage. |
| Finishing and QC | Final polish, clasp and stone checks, with applicable certification packed. | Nothing required from you during this stage. |
| Processing and shipping | Processing followed by US delivery. | Sign for high-value deliveries when required. |
What can add time includes a custom clasp design, a stone size that is not held in stock, or a late width change.
What does not necessarily add significant production time is deciding between engraving, polish finish, moissanite and lab-grown diamond when those choices are finalized during the brief.
What Decides the Price of a Custom Chain?
Four factors drive the price of a custom chain: metal weight, stone type, stone count and labour.
- Metal weight. Gold is priced by the gram at the day's applicable spot price and karat purity. A wider or longer chain generally weighs more. Going from 8mm to 10mm on a Cuban can add considerably more metal because the link becomes thicker throughout its construction.
- Stone type. Lab-grown diamond costs more per stone than moissanite at the same general size and quality level. On a fully iced Cuban containing hundreds of stones, this can create a major difference in the final quote.
- Stone count and size. A tennis chain using larger stones can have fewer individual stones than one using smaller stones. Total stone size and total carat weight contribute to the overall cost.
- Labour. Hand-setting time increases as the number of stones increases. A polished Franco is primarily a metal-focused build, while a fully iced Cuban requires substantially more setting work.
A custom quote is built from the CAD's metal weight and stone count. That is why we quote after the design rather than giving a fixed price before the dimensions and materials are established.
When comparing custom jewellery quotes, ask the jeweller to show the metal weight and stone count separately. This gives you a clearer way to compare two similar-looking chains.
Where Is a BlueIce Gems Chain Actually Made?
BlueIce Gems designs in New York and manufactures in Surat, Gujarat, India.
Consultations and CAD approval run through our New York office in the Diamond District, while manufacturing takes place in Surat.
The source identifies the following production and sourcing locations:
- Shivo Gems and Jewelry, Katargam, Surat - casting, assembly, stone setting and finishing.
- Helios Exports, Varachha, Surat - diamond sourcing.
- Stella Creation, Gandhinagar - lab-grown diamond unit.
This structure allows a moissanite and lab-grown version of the same chain to be quoted from a single CAD while keeping the design and stone requirements coordinated.
Custom or From the Collection Which Should You Choose?
Go custom when you need a specific width, a non-standard length, a pendant-matched stone size, engraving, or a link pattern we do not stock.
Buy from the iced-out chains collection when a standard Cuban, tennis, Franco or rope chain in an available length does the job. A collection chain skips the full custom CAD stage.
| Collection Chain | Custom Chain | |
|---|---|---|
| Design stage | None the pattern already exists. | CAD with revisions. |
| Lead time | Made to order according to the product's stated timeline. | 2–4 weeks after CAD approval. |
| Width and length | Fixed options per product. | Custom width and length. |
| Metal and stone | Choose from available product options. | Choose during the brief. |
| Engraving | Product-dependent. | Available on the clasp or tag where appropriate. |
| Returns | Subject to the standard return policy and product eligibility. | Non-returnable unless defective. |
| Price | Listed on the product page. | Quoted from CAD weight and stone requirements. |
If you are not sure, start with the collection. Many requests that sound “custom” are actually a collection chain in a different length or available material option, which can be simpler than commissioning an entirely new design.
How Do You Look After a Custom Chain?
Clean your chain with warm water, a small amount of dish soap and a soft brush. Dry it completely before storing it.
Store the chain flat or hung rather than coiled in a pouch with other jewellery. Moissanite and diamond are hard materials and can scratch softer metals when pieces rub together.
Take your chain off for the gym, pool and sleep. Sweat and chlorine can dull the finish, while a chain caught in bedding can put unnecessary stress on the clasp.
Have the prongs and clasp checked periodically. A loose stone can sometimes remain in place for a period before it falls out, so catching the issue early can prevent a lost stone.
If confirmed, customers can use our repair and cleaning service for pieces we have made.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does a custom chain take to make?
About 2–4 weeks after CAD approval, followed by 1–2 business days for processing and 3–7 business days for US delivery. The build clock starts at design sign-off rather than deposit, so approving the CAD quickly is the fastest way to keep the process moving.
Are custom chains solid gold or hollow?
Our links are cast solid and soldered closed. Hollow links are lighter and cheaper but can dent more easily. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, a hollow-centre piece cannot be described as “solid gold.”
Can I change the design after production starts?
Changes such as engraving text, polish finish and certain clasp details may be possible with a delay. Link width, link construction and length cannot simply be changed after casting without re-casting, which can restart part of the build process. This is why CAD approval is required before metal is cast.
Can I put moissanite in a custom chain instead of lab-grown diamonds?
Yes. Custom chains can be quoted with premium VVS moissanite or lab-grown diamonds. Moissanite provides strong visual fire at a lower material cost, while lab-grown diamond is the choice when you specifically want a diamond.
Do custom chains come with a certificate?
Lab-grown diamond chains include stone certification where applicable, such as SGL, IGI or GIA documentation. Moissanite chains typically come with quality documentation rather than a laboratory grading report.
Can I return a custom chain?
Custom and engraved chains are non-returnable unless they arrive defective or damaged. Eligible non-custom items can be returned within 15 days of delivery, subject to the applicable return policy and conditions.
Where should I start if I want a custom chain?
Send reference images together with your preferred width, length, metal and stone through our custom design page, or book a design consultation with our New York office. You will receive a CAD render to approve before anything is made.
Ready to See Your Chain Before It Exists?
Ready to turn your idea into a finished custom chain? Book a design consultation and we can turn your brief into a CAD render before production begins.
If you already know the style you want, browse our iced-out chains collection to find a standard design in your preferred look.
