Diamond Jewelry Trends: Toi et Moi, Fancy Color, Grillz and What Actually Lasts
What are the biggest diamond jewelry trends right now? Four: two stone toi et moi and bypass rings, oversized three stone compositions, fancy color stones, and diamonds set into streetwear pieces like grillz. One thing ties them together. Lab grown diamonds and moissanite made size and color affordable, so design now does the work that carat weight used to do. The catch is that every one of these trends asks more of the setting than a plain solitaire does.
We design custom jewelry at our selling office on West 48th Street in New York's Diamond District and make it in Surat, India. This guide covers the trends showing up in custom orders, what makes each one look good in person, and what it takes to keep each one looking good after a few years of wear.
In this guide
- Which diamond jewelry trends are actually driving custom orders?
- Why are toi et moi and bypass rings everywhere?
- Are three stone rings back?
- Are colored diamonds a trend or a fad?
- Why are diamonds showing up in grillz and streetwear pieces?
- Does a lab grown stone make a trend piece worth less?
- What do we see when these pieces reach the bench?
- Which trend fits the way you'll actually wear it?
- How do you keep a trend piece from aging badly?
- Frequently asked questions
- Ready to design yours?
Which diamond jewelry trends are actually driving custom orders?
The trends that are lasting have one thing in common: they make a stone look intentional, not just big. A pair of offset pears, a trio of ovals, a saturated yellow, a full row of pavé across a grill. Each one reads as a design choice from across a room, and none of them depends on the center stone being the largest you can afford.
Here is how the four compare on what actually matters once the piece leaves the showcase.
| Trend | What makes it read | Main engineering risk | Best for | BlueIce Gems example |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toi et moi / bypass | Two stones, opposing directions, visible movement | Two exposed pear tips; lateral stress on the shank | Engagement rings with a story | Dual Destiny: 2.00 ct + 1.00 ct pears, lab grown |
| Oversized three stone | Repetition of one shape across the finger | Height of the side stones catching on fabric | A statement ring that still reads classic | Ultra Luxe Three Stone: 3.50 ct total weight, ovals |
| Fancy color | Hue before sparkle | Treatment disclosure; metal color changing the look | Anyone who wants the stone recognized as theirs | Yellow and ice blue pavé grillz; fancy yellow rings |
| Streetwear settings | Context: diamonds where you don't expect them | Pavé loss on high contact surfaces; plating wear | Grillz, pendants, iced out pieces worn often | Yellow Diamond Gilded Avalanche full set grillz |
Why are toi et moi and bypass rings everywhere?
A toi et moi puts two stones side by side instead of one in the center, and it's the fastest way to make a ring look one of a kind without a bigger budget. "Toi et moi" is French for "you and me": two stones, two people. The bypass version offsets them so the shank appears to wrap around each stone, which adds movement.
Our Dual Destiny ring shows the logic. It pairs a 2.00 ct pear with a 1.00 ct pear, both lab grown, D to F color, VS+ clarity, set point to point in a bypass. Two pears pointing in opposite directions make the ring look like it's moving across the finger. A single 3.00 ct solitaire can't do that. The pair ships with an IGI report and is made to order in 1 to 3 weeks.
See the full toi et moi ring collection for other shape pairings.
What goes wrong is visual weight, not math. A large pear set too close to a much smaller round looks like a mistake rather than a pairing. Good toi et moi design balances spread, orientation and the gap between stones so the two read as one composition.
The engineering cost is real. A pear has a fine tip, and a toi et moi has two. Ask for a V prong or protective claw on every pear point, and expect the jeweler to check those tips first at every inspection.
Are three stone rings back?
Yes, but bigger and bolder than the version your parents remember. The modern three stone uses substantial side stones in the same shape as the center, so the ring reads as one continuous silhouette instead of a center stone with small accents.
Our Ultra Luxe Three Stone ring is a good reference point: oval center and oval sides totalling 3.50 carats, lab grown, E/F color, VVS2/VS1 clarity, available in 925 silver, 10K, 14K and 18K gold, and platinum.
Repeating the oval stretches the ring along the finger, and the width reads classic from a distance and dramatic up close. Browse more in three stone rings.
The trade off is profile. Side stones that size sit high, and high stones catch on knit sweaters, gloves and hair. For daily wear, ask for a lower basket on the side stones and a closed gallery. Save the higher, more open settings for rings that don't see every day of your life.
On hand fit: elongated shapes such as oval, pear and marquise lengthen the finger. Rounder, more compact arrangements suit shorter fingers. It's a guideline, not a rule. Try it on or ask for a CAD render at your ring size before you commit.
Are colored diamonds a trend or a fad?
Color is the most durable of these trends, because a colored stone is recognized as yours in a way a colorless one rarely is. Yellow, pink and ice blue have moved from red carpets into everyday pieces, largely because lab grown production brought their cost down to where buyers can choose color for style rather than rarity.
Three things decide whether a colored stone looks the way you want:
- Intensity, not just hue. GIA grades colored diamonds on an intensity scale that runs from Faint through Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid, based on hue, tone and saturation. For yellow and champagne tones, saturation matters more to the eye than a step up in clarity.
- Cut. Step cuts and radiants hold body color well. Round brilliants maximize sparkle and can wash out a pale hue.
- Metal. Yellow gold deepens yellow; white gold and platinum read cooler and can make the same stone look paler.
Disclosure matters here. Many lab grown colors, pinks in particular, are produced or intensified by treatment after growth. Under the FTC's Jewelry Guides, a seller must disclose a gemstone treatment if it isn't permanent, needs special care, or significantly affects value.
Ask how the color was produced and make sure the answer is on the report.
We compare colored diamonds with sapphires and emeralds in colored gemstone vs diamond engagement rings. Current colored pieces are in the color diamond ring collection.
Why are diamonds showing up in grillz and streetwear pieces?
Because context is now part of the design. A row of pavé across a set of teeth reads as a statement in a way that the same stones in a tennis bracelet never will. This is hip hop's contribution to fine jewelry, and it's no longer niche.
Our Yellow Diamond Gilded Avalanche full set grillz is built around that idea: dense yellow toned pavé across every tooth. By default it's set with moissanite, with lab grown diamonds on request. The base metal is 925 silver, with 9K, 10K, 14K and 18K gold or platinum available when you customize.
It's made in 2 to 4 weeks. The ice blue sibling, the Oceanic Frost full set, uses the same approach with cool toned stones. Both are in custom grillz.
Two practical points most trend guides skip:
- Know what "gilded" means on your piece. A yellow finish over silver is plating, not gold. Under the FTC Jewelry Guides, gold over sterling silver can only be called vermeil if it's at least 10 karat and 2.5 microns thick. Thinner plating wears through on high contact surfaces. If you want the color permanently, order solid gold.
- Pavé on teeth works harder than pavé on a finger. Remove grillz before eating and sleeping, and clean them after every wear.
Does a lab grown stone make a trend piece worth less?
It changes the resale story, not the look. A lab grown diamond has the same optical, physical and chemical properties as a mined one. What it doesn't have is the secondary market that high quality natural diamonds do. Buy lab grown for the look and the design budget, not as a financial asset.
This is also why lab grown fits trend pieces so well. It moves your budget from carat weight into the design: a second pear, a better setting, solid gold instead of plating.
We make the case in full in are lab grown diamonds real luxury?.
Honest labeling is a legal requirement, not a courtesy. The FTC requires lab grown diamonds to be clearly described as laboratory grown, laboratory created, manufacturer created or similar, so buyers know they aren't mined.
Moissanite is a separate stone, silicon carbide, not a diamond of any kind. We sell it as moissanite and don't treat it as a stand in for diamond.
What do we see when these pieces reach the bench?
Trend guides are written from runways. This section is written from the bench. BlueIce Gems pieces are set in Katargam, Surat, at Shivo Gems and Jewelry. Our lab grown stones come from Stella Creation in Gandhinagar, and design consultations run out of 48 W 48th St in New York.
What that means for the pieces in this guide:
- Two lead times, both made to order. The lab grown rings above are listed at 1 to 3 weeks. Grillz take 2 to 4 weeks because each set is built from a dental impression.
- Certification follows the stone. The Dual Destiny ships with an IGI report. Grillz pavé isn't individually graded, and at melee sizes nobody's is.
- Custom starts in CAD. Every custom piece begins as a CAD render so you can check scale and stone layout before metal is cast.
Which trend fits the way you'll actually wear it?
Choose one feature to make the piece memorable, then spend there. Trying to maximize color, silhouette and setting at once inflates cost and blurs the result.
| If you... | Choose | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Want an engagement ring nobody else has | Toi et moi or bypass | The composition is the signature, not the carat weight |
| Want bold but traditional | Oversized three stone | Reads classic at a distance, dramatic up close |
| Want the stone itself recognized as yours | Fancy color | Hue is remembered long after carat weight is forgotten |
| Want jewelry that reads as culture, not ceremony | Grillz or iced out pieces | Context does the talking |
| Wear rings through manual work | Three stone with low side baskets, or a bezel set color stone | Fewer exposed tips and edges |
How do you keep a trend piece from aging badly?
Protect the setting. The stone takes care of itself. Diamonds and moissanite are hard enough that everyday wear rarely damages them. Prongs, pear tips, pavé beads and plating are what wear out.
- Clean at home with warm water, mild dish soap and a soft brush. Skip chlorine and abrasive pastes, which strip plating.
- Ask before using an ultrasonic cleaner on pavé, treated stones or anything with a plated finish.
- Have prongs and pear tips checked by a jeweler at least once a year, and sooner if a stone ever feels loose or catches.
- Store pieces separately so harder stones don't scratch softer metal.
- Keep the report, the receipt and clear photos together for insurance.
The construction side is covered in iced out jewelry that lasts.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most popular engagement ring trend right now?
Toi et moi and bypass rings, which pair two stones instead of one center, are the most visible engagement ring trend alongside oversized three stone designs. Both make a ring look distinctive through composition rather than carat weight, and both work well with lab grown stones.
Are fancy colored diamonds a good choice for everyday wear?
Yes. A colored diamond is exactly as hard as a colorless one. The things to check are whether the color came from treatment and whether that treatment needs special care. The seller is required to disclose both, so ask before you buy.
Is a toi et moi ring practical for daily wear?
It can be, if the pear or marquise tips are protected with V prongs and the stones sit reasonably low. The two exposed points are the weak spots, so have them checked at least once a year.
Is lab grown diamond jewelry a trend that will last?
Lab grown diamonds are chemically and optically diamond, so the stone itself won't date. What changes is resale value, which is lower than for natural diamonds. Buy lab grown for the look and the design budget, not as an investment.
Is gold plated jewelry the same as gold?
No. Plating is a thin gold layer over another metal and wears through with contact. Vermeil must be at least 10 karat gold, 2.5 microns thick, over sterling silver under FTC rules. For grillz or rings worn daily, solid gold lasts longer.
How long does a custom trend piece take to make?
At BlueIce Gems, the lab grown rings in this guide are made to order in 1 to 3 weeks, and custom grillz take 2 to 4 weeks. Custom designs start with a CAD render, and production begins once you approve it.
Ready to design yours?
Pick the one feature that should make the piece yours: two stones, three, a color or an unexpected setting.
Then book a design consultation and we'll send a CAD render at your size before anything is cast.
